Did you know that the average household produces nearly 200 pounds of kitchen waste every year? According to the King County Solid Waste Division in Washington, more than 35 percent of waste collected from the county's single family residences is composed of food scraps and soiled paper. That amounts to over 250,000 tons of food waste and soiled paper per year in only one county. All of that could be recycled into compost.

If you currently have a compost bin or pile on your property consider saving food scraps from your kitchen, if you don’t already. You can take the material to your main bin daily or even weekly. If you plan to wait more than a day, though, I would suggest you consider purchasing a compost keeper for your kitchen. Compost keepers typically are sealed containers for storing food waste. Some models are even equipped with replaceable carbon filters that are useful for eliminating odors between trips to your compost pile.

For those more adventurous souls, vermiculture, or worm composting is another option. Worm composting can be done inside your own home. Gardeners who choose this method often have a bin directly under their sinks. This bin, filled with living earthworms, is the new waste bin for food scraps instead of the trash can. The worms quietly go about turning your waste into “castings” that make up an extremely fertile material that also conditions your soil.

Composting in the kitchen can add beneficial nutrients and amendments to your garden soil while saving landfill space at the same time. Have you begun to take part in this recycling effort? I have.

You can learn even more about kitchen composting by requesting your free copy of “Composting Begins in the Kitchen,” an ebook by Horticulturist Thomas Smith.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Thomas_P_Smith

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Author: Patrick Malcolm

A flowering tree is best planted for spring blooming in the fall when dormant, however, container flowering trees can be planted any season, but preferably fall and winter is best. Gardeners can buy many colors of flowering trees: red, white, yellow, peach, pink, plum, lavender, blue, and apricot. You can buy a flowering tree that can bloom during any season: fall flowering, winter flowering, and spring flowering when most trees bloom, and then, summer flowering. The weather is a determining factor in tree flowering; some trees require chilling, yet other flowering trees require hot, humid temperatures. The flowering dogwood tree, Cornus florida, blooms in Florida in March, but it can flower in Tennessee in April, largely because of the temperature differences. A flowering apricot tree, Prunus mume, can bloom in Georgia in January, but in Illinois, the flowering is delayed until April or May, depending on the large temperature difference. Flowering cherry trees bloom in red, pink, and white colors, and some varieties bloom over a period of one to two months.

Flowering magnolia trees of the Japanese cultivar, Magnolia stellata, and Magnolia x soulangiana can bloom in winter, with colors of red, white, pink, and purple, yet the Southern flowering magnolia tree, Magnolia grandiflora, blooms during the summer with large, white, fragrant flowers. The Sweetbay flowering magnolia, Magnolia virginiana, blooms in summer and fall. Magnolia flowering trees can bloom any month of the year, some evergreen, some deciduous.

Flowering crape myrtle (crepe myrtle) trees have been hybridized to flower in spectacular colors of red, pink, white, lavender, and purple during the summer and fall. Some crape myrtle flowering trees will rebloom and others flower over a period of 90 days.

Flowering crabapple trees bloom mainly in the spring in flower colors of white, red, peach, plum, and apricot. Not only are the large blooms fragrant on the flowering crabapple tree, but plum red fruit grows for wildlife during the fall. The fruit of the flowering crabapple tree can be made into crabapple jam or crabapple jelly.

Flowering cherry trees are native (Prunus caroliniana) to the U.S., and the beautiful Japanese Kwanzan and Yoshino, flowering cherry, hybrid trees blossom in Washington, D.C. During the Spring as an exciting American National Treasure. Civic pageants are held to celebrate Spring festivals at the Nation’s Capitol, Washington, D.C. at Macon, Ga., and other cities and are scheduled to begin with the blossoming of the Japanese, flowering cherry tree. Grafted flowering, crabapple trees bloom with fully red, white or pink flowers very early in the Spring. Flowering dogwood trees bloom to announce the arrival of spring in colors of red, white or pink. Flowering plum trees are fragrant and white in native or grafted forms, developed as Japanese hybrid cultivars.

Flowering pear trees are fully covered with white, one-inch flowers as grafted hybrids developed by scientists to grow in Northern and Southern gardens. Fall and Winter flowering trees, such as camellia, cassia and apricot, bloom in seasons where color and fragrance are rare. Flowering peach trees are available to buy in colors of red, white, pink and peppermint.

About the Author:
Patrick Malcolm, owner of TyTy Nursery, http://www.tytyga.com , has an M.S. degree in Botany and has hybridized crinum lily, canna lily, and other rare flower bulbs for over 34 years.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/buy-a-flowering-tree-for-fall-planting-481895.html

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They’re beautiful. They’re exotic. They’re disease resistant. They grow fast and spread rapidly. What’s not to love about these foreign transplants? Well, first of all, given the right conditions, they will reseed like crazy and replicate like creatures from outer space. They will spread like wildfire and cover every native plant in their path. They can climb a tree, overwhelm it, and, in many cases, kill it down to its roots.

If you live in Zone 6 and below, these are the invasive beauties to avoid:

• Kudzu (Pueraria lobata): Native to Japan, this vine was introduced to America, for ornamental purposes and erosion control, back in 1876. What were they thinking? Today, “The Vine That Ate The South” smothers banks, arbors, telephone poles, trees, houses and fields. It is actually quite lovely, with bright green leaves and fragrant red purple flowers, in clusters 8-12 inches long. However, growing at a rate of a foot a day, this vine should be avoided, unless you are hiding from the law. Projects are underway to eradicate this species, with the hope of importing, from Japan, its natural insect predators. Let’s hope this quest doesn't create even more problems.
  
• Purple Loosestrife (Lythrum salicara): This plant is both hated and loved. Radiantly beautiful, this plant is killing our wetlands. It was introduced from Europe in the mid-1800s. Escaping from the garden, it has made its home in a favorite habitat, the fast vanishing marshes and estuaries of the U.S. The tall purple flowered plant, with its magnificent spires of blooms, spreads at an alarming rate, crowding out our native wetland species and destroying huge areas of natural wildlife habitat. It both reseeds and spreads by underground shoots, faster than any native species. You can no longer purchase these seeds or plants in the U.S. from reputable nurseries.
  
• Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’): A single plant of this radiant groundcover will eclipse a slope in a season. It simply grows and spreads in shady moist soil, choking out less vigorous plantings, and growing up and over larger species. The roots are extremely invasive, robbing nutrients from other plants, and they are devilishly hard to dig out. If a single stem is left in the ground, come spring it will begin the invasion again. I have found that the only way to get rid of this invasive groundcover was to smother it under layers of newspaper and mulch. Although this plant can still be found at nurseries, I would avoid it and choose a less invasive groundcover.
  
• Water Hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes): Imported from Brazil in 1884, this gorgeous floating plant has taken over our waterways, choking ponds, canals, and swamps. Spread by current and wind, this 2 foot wide invasive, with its breathtaking flowers of yellow and blue, has become a million dollar problem from Florida to California. Like all foreign invasives it has no natural enemies in the U.S., so it continues to invade our estuaries and wetlands, and destroy native species. If introduced to garden ponds, it will quickly destroy beneficial vegetation and steal the oxygen from the fish. Avoid this plant at all cost.
  
• Mimosa or Silk Tree (Albizia julibrissin): Graceful and beautiful, the Mimosa is one of the loveliest large trees to over-populate the south. It’s fragrant "cotton candy” blooms are a favorite of hummingbirds. A native of Asia, this tree flourishes as far North as zone 6, and once you have one tree, you will have a hundred. According to a renowned British seed company, germinating Mimosa seeds is a little tricky, requiring understanding and experience. I disagree. I have found that to germinate a thousand seeds, all you need is a patch of dirt or a crack in the sidewalk. Once invaded, you will be fighting seedlings for years, long after this short-lived tree is cut down. Do not plant this tree unless you have acres of land. Avoid planting near anything. It will germinate so fast and reseed by the hundreds, year after year. It is like a lovely disease that you will never be able to control. Avoid this tree like the plague.
  
• Japanese Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica): This fragrant vine with its unremarkable flowers, can be found taking over everything across the south and midwest. Often grown as a groundcover on banks, or for erosion control, this invasive transplant has become a noxious weed. It smothers everything less vigorous, even your roses and ornamentals of any size. While its scent is heavenly, I would avoid this Japanese native entirely.

Many plants and trees have been introduced to the U.S., and they have become a welcome part of our gardening culture. They are not all bad plants, although there are some native purists who would argue that no non-native should be allowed to germinate in U.S. soil. However, many non-natives have been used to strengthen native plants overcome by disease, such as the beautiful native dogwood or the blighted American chestnut. It is the wise gardener who studies each new introduction carefully, understanding that what is beautiful is not necessarily beneficial. In this way one can win the fight before the battle begins.

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Author: Andrew Stephens

There are (3) main soil types: clay, sand and loam. It is important to identify your property’s soil type when planning a flower garden.

Clay is a heavy, sticky soil that retains moisture. It is composed mostly of tiny, smooth-sided mineral parts that stay close together. This soil drains very poorly and dos not have the air pockets that are necessary for most flowers and plants to survive in health.

Sand is quite opposite of clay, in that, it is based of relatively large, irregular-shaped parts with a vast amount of air pockets. This soil drains very quickly and does not retain the proper nutrients for good plant growth. Most of the nutrients wash away before they can benefit the plant-life.

Loam is made up of equal parts of clay, sand, and silt. Silt is medium-sized particles of soil. This combination of soils is perfect for healthy plant growth.

Easy soil testing is achieved by squeezing the soil in your hand and noting it’s reaction to the pressure.

Clay: when squeezed will stick together

Sand: when squeezed (moist) will crumble

Loam: when squeezed will hold together, but will separate easily when

prodded with a stick or finger.

When confronted with poor soil conditions, it is important to add organic mulch or compost to the soil. This matter will hold nutrients needed for healthy plant growth, create air pockets, and retain moisture. The down-size to this solution is that the mulch or compost needs to be replenished every 12-24 months to maintain it’s quality because it breaks down quickly.

pH levels in the soil are an important factor in proper plant growth. pH measures the acidic levels and alkalinity of the soil. A good pH level for healthy plant growth is between 5.5 and 6.5 because of the need for some acidic values that help plants thrive.

For more information on how to meet your gardening needs visit www.teamgreenll.com

About the Author:

Andrew Stephens is the Operations Manager for Cincinnati’s premier landscaping company Team Green L&L Landscaping www.teamgreenll.com

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/soils-and-flowers-129802.html

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Help in maintaining your flowering gardens

Want to know some tips on getting a healthy,blooming and well maintained flowering gardens . Read on and learn
good insider tips and advice.
Our tips are aimed at gardeners of all standards, whether you are the serious gardener or the potter around the garden type of person, to be rewarded with wonderful flowering gardens .

Our aim is to help and guide you throughout the seasons of the year. giving you relevant information on what is happening in your garden at that moment, and what you should be doing to achieve the best results for your efforts.
This is one of the best times of the year, watching your garden wake up from its hibernation,getting ready for its endless toll of bursting out in bloom and spreading its aromatic scents that dance around the garden tantilising your nostrils and senses, lifting your sprit and making you feel like a million dollars The wonder that is nature has sprung.
This time of year is one of the busiest parts of the seasons, now that winter has become a distant memory and spring has officially arrived. Plants and trees are bursting into life from there dormant state, being fed on the ever increasing rise in temperature from the suns rays. What a wonderful sight to watch the garden awake from its slumber to start its yearly ritual, bringing us a never ending explosion of colour and to fill the air with its wonderful aromatic scents.
Giving daily changes for us to discover, as we walk admiringly round our gardens.

It is only fair that that we repay the flowering plants, shrubs and trees for their tireless work they are about to embark on over the coming months by giving them the best care we can. This does not have to mean a great expense of money or time.

Try the following easy tips for your flowering gardens

Walk round and prune off dead, broken and damaged stems.
Do the same for any trees also raking up any fallen twigs.

Replace any dead plants (making sure they actually are dead and not still dormant)

Remember, Just the effort of dead heading flowering bulbs achieves a tidier garden and the bulb improves as the energy goes into enlargement instead of setting seed heads.

Hoe the garden to loosen the soil and remove any weeds

Add Fertilizer to feed the plants (But make sure its not to cold or wet and that the ground has started to warm up)
Chicken pellets are a good all round general fertilizer
Plants like Rhododendrons and azaleas will need feeding with an acid based fertilizer

For great flowering gardens summer bulbs and corms need planting now.
Remember to dig your holes wider and deeper than required to allow you to add a 50/50 mix of compost and sharp sand which will help to get the best out of your bulbs and improve your flowering gardens .

We must not forget about some lawn care as this is some peoples pride and joy, and even comes before plants.

This is the best time to scarify the lawns ready for the onslaught of the summer months.
What this means is you should be removing everything that is not grass such as moss and weeds.
This is best done by using a lawn or spring tine rake or if it is a large area you can buy or hire a scarifyer. (well worth it )
The easiest way to clear the mess up is run the lawnmower with a collector on over it.
As a side note - make sure you have cut the grass and it is dry, if not you could start to tear it out which is not very clever.

This is also the right time to aerate your lawns after scarifying.
This means you open up the ground to allow the soil to breath and allow water to penetrate.
Over the winter period the ground gets compacted with all the wet and people walking on it.
This is done by sticking a garden fork into the ground and penetrating the surface by up a couple of inches. You stand on the fork and move it back and forth if it is really hard. You then move forward a couple of inches and repeat the process, try to get in a rhythm and it will make it easier. When you reach the other end, turn round, move over a fork width and come back.(Wear good leather boots and do not jump on the fork as this could damage the sole of your foot)
Again you can purchase or hire a push along or motorised aerater

Do not weed and feed your lawn at this point until your lawn has time to recover about two or three weeks time. Also you should not feed your lawn until the frosts have gone and when you do, make sure you water it in if it dose not rain within a couple of days. (try not to walk on it until the fertilizer has dissolved as this can cause brown patches)

Till the next time enjoy your flowering gardens

Ted & Sandra
www.theaudiodownload.com
www.thetalkingbooksite.com
www.learnturnandearn.com

This article is free for republishing
Source: http://www.articlealley.com/article_145318_32.html

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Author: Abhishek Agarwal

Most people are overwhelmed by the prospect of rose gardening. It is widely acknowledged that diseases are amongst the most familiar hindrances to the gardening of roses. Rose plants are commonly infected by the Georgia black spot disease. Actually, the black spots can be detected only on the rose plants. The disease is characterized by unsightly black spots that occur all over the rose bush and will ultimately result in the falling of leaves. The disease can be transmitted from one rose plant to another.

Nevertheless, this should not put you off rose gardening. The Georgia black spot disease can be checked and treated. To see that your rose plants are not affected by black spots, you should make sure that the rose plants are at a suitable distance from each other. This is extremely crucial to gardening - the Georgia black spot disease prospers in areas where the flow of air between rose plants is far from adequate.

A further way of averting black spots is to be cautious while watering the rose plants. The most favorable time for watering roses is in the early hours of the day. The Georgia black spot disease flourishes in damp conditions. The watering of roses late in the evening leads to water retention in the absence of evaporation, thus giving rise to the development of fungus and mildew.

However, in spite of all your best efforts, you find that the rose bushes are infected with black spots, you can have your plants carefully treated and the fungus destroyed. In the first place, strip the plant of all its leaves that are infected by the spots as this will ensure that the fungus does not spread any further.

Then, you need to have your garden treated to make sure that black spots no longer break out on the leaves. Every single leaf of every single rose bush needs to be treated since black spots can spread like crazy. You can pick up products that are expressly made to handle such an eventuality in rose gardening. The local garden center supplies products that can help treat the Georgia black spot disease.

Alternatively, the below stated procedure can be used to create an organic concoction that eliminates all signs of black spots. This concoction will destroy black spots without the need to use fungicides that have an unfavorable effect on the environmental surroundings.

Fungicide for treating Black Spots and Mildew

Baking soda - 1tsp
Water - 1litre
Soap Flakes - 1tsp.

Method: Dissolve the baking soda in warm water of approx. one liter.

Put in the soap flakes to enable this solution to adhere to the leaves. Take out the diseased leaves from the rose plants and then squirt the solution on the upper and lower portion of the leaves remaining, to help check the spread of black spots.

Thus, this is the end to all your problems regarding the Georgia black spot disease. This disease in no way should stop you from growing gorgeous roses and enjoy their fragrance and beauty both in your home as well as in the garden. A small investment in time and effort are called for to enable you to keep from having to face this garden irritant ever again.

About the Author:

Abhishek is a self-confessed Gardening addict! Visit his website http://www. Gardening-Master.com and download his FREE Gardening Report “Indoor Gardening Secrets” and learn some amazing Gardening tips for FREE! Create the perfect Garden on a shoe-string budget. And yes, you get to keep all the accolades! But hurry, only limited Free copies available!. http://www. Gardening-Master.com

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/rose-gardening-prevention-from-georgia-black-spot-disease-348511.html

Technorati Tags: Flowers,go to sleep little baby oh brother where art thou

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Author: Dino Meiyers

One reason why the perennial plant is sought after is because of its remarkable ability to survive year round through most weather conditions. Not unlike your local mail delivery person, perennials lives on through rain, sleet, or snow - perfect for the year round gardener. What is it about perennials that enables it's winter survival abilities, whereas other plants will shrivel up and die as soon as the going get tough? Why can't scientists engineer annuals or biennials to last as long the perennial plant?

As with most things in the natural world, not all plants are created equal, however some biologists have succeeded in re-engineering annual and biennial plants to last longer. To do so, they must examine the perennial plant and find out what allows it to survive in the same environment that causes other to perish. Although stretching the life of a non-perennial would certainly make the plant and floral businesses flourish, marketing isn’t the only reason scientists and many others have this question. If we had vast amounts of plants that have medicinal and life saving properties, we could study their curing capabilities at an exponential rate. The longevity of the perennial plant is definitely an exciting curiosity for many people.

Interestingly enough, the perennial plant is able to thrive year after year due to a few survival tricks it has up it’s sleeve. Take trees and shrubs for example. These drop their leaves and protect their next year’s growth with waxy scales. Examine the bud of a perennial plant and you’ll see that it covered with a sticky looking waterproof wax.. When the bud begins to bloom, it scars as its scales fall off and the distance between its scars are an indicator of how many times a year that perennial plant grows.

The perennial plant gears up for the winter by draining its own food supply from its leaves down inside its trunk, branches, and twigs. As the weather gets colder, the tissues of the perennial plant will slowly change and become cold resistant in a process called “hardening.” During these changes, the chlorophyll of a perennial plant will decompose and lose its propensity to project a green hue - leaving the tree with its trademark red, yellow, orange, and brown autumn leaves.

About the Author:

Contributed By
The Perennial Flower Guide
Perennial Flowers

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/why-the-perennial-plant-survives-through-the-winter-15685.html

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